He whips it together with pecorino cheese, pepper and some of the rendered fat from the guanciale, creating a savoury zabaione (an Italian custard). His carbonara is very yellow in colour since he only uses egg yolks – one per 60g of pasta. The lean part of the meat ultimately caramelises and becomes a sort of "popcorn guanciale": crunchy outside and tender inside. As the fat renders, he removes some of the molten liquid with a spoon. Instead, Pipero cares about other things, such as the "extreme browning" of the guanciale (cured pork cheek), a process in which he crisps the meat in a cast-iron pan. "Honestly, I don't care who invented it," he adds. "No one has a trademark on the recipe," says Alessandro Pipero, chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Pipero in Rome, who is considered one of the kings of carbonara. She added the recipe of its signature dish, carbonara. In Vittles and Vice: An Extraordinary Guide to What's Cooking on Chicago's Near North Side, author Patricia Bronté listed the Italian restaurant Armando's – owned by chefs Pietro Lencioni and Armando Lorenzini – among her favourite places. The first carbonara recipe was published in the US in 1952. And at the time, although the country was on its knees, Italians could buy military rations on the black market that included bacon from Americans and egg powder from the British. Soldiers were apparently asking for "spaghetti breakfast": eggs, bacon and pasta. Its name is tongue-in-cheek, since perfection is elusive – and maybe even impossible – in the case of carbonara.Ĭozzella interviewed the grandchildren of innkeepers who, in the late 1940s after World War Two, would feed American soldiers in the picturesque neighbourhood of Trastevere, just across the river Tiber in Rome. She spent six years covering National Carbonara Day on 6 April, and ended up writing a book called The Perfect Carbonara that won a Gourmand World Cookbook Award in 2020. "It was a combination of Italian genius and American resources," explains Italian food author Eleonora Cozzella. Why is everyone so passionate about this? And who invented the real carbonara? The claims in the article created an uproar across Italy. "A surrealist attack!", denounced the agricultural association Coldiretti, while the country weighed into a juicy debate on social media. On 23 March, at the same time that Italy had put forward its cuisine as a candidate for Unesco's Intangible Heritage list, the Financial Times published an article in which Italian food expert Alberto Grandi claimed that carbonara was actually invented by Americans living in Italy just after World War Two. A few minutes after her message, a New York writer friend told me he was being flown to Rome in a hurry to investigate the topic. She wasn't talking about politics, but about pasta carbonara. "Right now, we can't talk about anything else," my friend, a foreign affairs reporter in Rome, wrote to me.
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